DINING OUT: Nouveau has a new taste sensation

A sleek and elegant interior complements sophisticated flavor pairings and show-stopping presentation at one of Bay Ridge’s newest eateries, Nouveau, nestled conveniently on Third Avenue.

The cuisine that is featured is Asian-Latin American fusion, and the foodstuffs speak to the refined sensibilities of partners Angelo Licea and James Sahadi and chef Shapan Karmaker, a veteran of Brooklyn culinary landmark Lundy’s as well as Manhattan’s Sheraton Hotel, where he served as executive chef).

Every dish that I sampled or viewed during an extended tasting was drop-dead gorgeous to look at – and that was just a preview of the gustatory delights I experienced as Karmaker has expertly juxtaposed the tantalizing but sometimes elusive flavors of the far east with the hearty tastes that characterize Latino cooking.

Take the Barcelona New York Strip Steak ($28). A glorious 12 ounces in size, the steak is a meat-lover’s dream-come-true, meltingly tender and supremely flavorful, thanks to Spanish paprika, bite-size chunks of chorizo and a carefully arranged pool of Gazpacho Sauce for a contrast in texture and flavor. The east-west theme comes through in the garnish – a crisscrossing of lemongrass stalks and a scattering of cilantro and chickpeas.

The Mango Lemon Duck ($32), bathed in a sweet mango sauce, was a study in contrasts, with the meaty duck enhanced dramatically by the counter point between the fruity sauce and the crispy, peppery microgreens perched on top.

The Honey Lemon Glazed Pork Chop ($22) exemplified Nouveau’s approach. The generous 16-ounce portion was sweet-tart and succulent, beautifully bathed in a Cilantro Green Pepper Sauce and enhanced by its accompaniment, a tightly furled mound of corn and caramelized onion that was as hearty as the pork and played well with its sweet-spicy yin-yang.

A standout among the appetizers were the Honey Ginger Glazed Spare Ribs ($12). Meaty and rich, and served on a bed of apple and carrot slaw, they were sweet, but not overly so, falling off the bone but with a glossy, crusty exterior that appealed to both eye and palate, as shavings of ginger added piquancy.

Also supremely tasty were the Asian-inflected Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes ($11), served with a melon and avocado salsa. The cakes tasted pleasantly of the brininess of the sea without being overpoweringly fishy, crisp on the outside and soft on the inside.

The Crispy Fried Calamari ($13) were also a winner. Served with a spicy plum sauce whose sweetness played pleasantly off against the calamari’s battered exterior, they were declared the best calamari he had ever eaten by at least one of my dining companions. They were expertly fried, another stressed, and not in the least greasy.

The desserts were literally the icing on the cake of a supremely satisfying dining experience.

I sampled several and have to admit that the Pastel de Tres Leches ($10) was my odds-on favorite. Described on the menu as vanilla sponge cake soaked in evaporated and sweet condensed milk with fresh cream, it featured an interplay of flavors and textures, including caramel –for which I have a distinct weakness, that kept me nibbling past the point of satiety.

Also amazing was the Warm Chocolate Molten Cake (served with vanilla ice cream, $8), a gorgeous mound of warm, meltingly glorious dark chocolate that sang on my palate.

The Snickers Cake ($8) was also noteworthy, rich with nuts and chocolate, chewy and rich, as was the fabulously creamy Cheesecake ($8) and the classic Flan ($8), a dessert that is comfortably at home on the Spanish table.

From first bite to last, the Latino-Asian pairing worked – a satisfying and tantalizing yin-yang that is a culinary siren song that will no doubt appeal to local diners.

NOUVEAU

8214 3rd Avenue

Brooklyn, NY 11209

www.NouveauBK.com

347-497-5121

5-11 p.m. for dinner, Tuesday through Sunday

Bar open till 3 a.m., Tuesday through Sunday