DINING OUT: Tommaso's has tradition with a twist

A charming and engaging temple of gastronomy draws savvy diners right here in southwest Brooklyn.

The Dyker Heights-based Tommaso’s – which was bustling when we were there on Tuesday evening -- offers an ode to traditional Italian food, prepared by a classically-trained chef whose culinary inspiration was his mother.

Everything we tasted was amazing, beginning with the crusty bread – accompanied by a shallow bowl of olive oil enhanced with parsley for an herbal nuance that was both refreshing and satisfying.

There is a large selection of intriguing a la carte options, but we ordered off the prix fixe menu, a real bargain with three courses (appetizer, main dish and dessert) for $27. There’s a wide selection so it’s easy to find something appealing.

Before our appetizers arrived, we sampled two amuse-bouches, little wedges of focaccia topped with sautéed onions and crisp-on-the-outside, creamy-on-the-inside rice balls oozing mozzarella cheese that set our palates up for the pleasures still to come.

And, they were many. Among the appetizers, fresh mozzarella slices with unctuous strips of roasted red pepper was sweet and tender, bathed in fruity olive oil and spiked delightfully with basil. A handful of cured olives and a couple of slices of tomato completed the generously filled, brightly colored and flavored plate.

The Cold Antipasto was also on our to-eat list, an earthy combination of prepared salads with a buttery slice of sausage and a mild hunk of provolone. The Caponata – a Sicilian take on eggplant – was sweet yet savory, rich, dark and addictive. Roasted red pepper strips did an encore here, adding another grace note to an inspired combination of tastes. Grilled zucchini was sweet yet smoky. The button mushrooms were slightly tart with just enough salt to stimulate the taste buds.

Then, it was time for the main course. Chicken Scarpariello – chunks of chicken and potato resting in a lemon-inflected sauce – teased the palate as it satisfied. This is classic comfort food, Italian-style, perfect for warming up on a cold evening.

The Broiled Salmon was cooked just right, crispy on top and tender in the middle. It was served in a pool of butter, lemon and parsley with impeccably roasted potatoes.

Dessert provided the perfect finishing touch. The Italian-style cheesecake, dusted with powdered sugar, was light and citrusy, grounded by a tender crust. The Tortoni was frozen almond creaminess, just like it should be.

We were pleasantly surprised with the coffee, which had notes of caramel and vanilla. It almost did not need any sweetening.

Tommaso’s gladly serves large parties and is a great place for a business dinner or a meal with a special someone. So grab your friends, and mangiamo!

TOMMASO’S

1464 86^th Street

Brooklyn NY 11228

718-236-9883

Sunday through Thursday, noon to 10 p.m.

Friday and Saturday, noon to 11 p.m.

www.tommasoinbrooklyn.com