DINING OUT: Italian delights at Areo Restaurant

Traditional Italian food from every part of the country – plus new dishes inspired by the availability of an increasing variety of once hard-to-find ingredients – is the recipe for success of Areo, which has been feeding hungry diners for approximately 25 years.

“We represent all regions of Italy,” stressed owner-operator Robert Silvestri, who comes from a family of restaurateurs. “We serve Sicilian dishes, Neapolitan dishes, Northern Italian dishes, Tuscan dishes. And, we have added new items because customers are aware of all the different things that are available. We cater to all age groups, palates and tastes.”

With decades of tried-and-true recipes in its repertoire, Areo offers up not only the classics that diners have come to expect but also seasonal specialties that reflect what is available in the market at a particular time of year. In spring, the risotto features peas and asparagus; in the fall, mushrooms and beans, said Silvestri.

Among the appetizers, such favorites as Mozzarella in Carrozza (Fried Mozzarella, $7 at lunch, $8.50 at dinner), Insalata Caprese (Buffalo mozzarella and tomatoes dressed with basil oil, $8 at lunch) and hot and cold antipasto ($13 and $12.50 respectively at dinner) share menu space with more unusual offerings such as Polpettine al Limone (Lemon Meatballs, $7 at lunch) and Capesante al Marsala (Baked Scallops with Marsala and Almonds, $10 at lunch).

I tried two of the restaurant’s signature appetizers. The Polenta Carnival (warm polenta with three cheeses and sautéed mushrooms, $8 at lunch) was luxuriously buttery, the golden mound of polenta oozing an addictive blend of ricotta, mascarpone and parmesan cheeses when cut into, and the richly flavorful mushrooms enhanced by the addition of whole roast garlic cloves and flecks of fresh parsley.

From the restaurant’s special Dine in Brooklyn Restaurant Week menu ($20.12 at lunch through March 29; $23 subsequently), I sampled the Eggplant Croquettes with Goat Cheese Salad, which tantalized the palate with its interplay of flavors and textures. The breaded and fried rounds of eggplant were sweet and meltingly tender, providing a distinct counterpoint to the tartness of the lightly dressed greens, as well as to the scoop of soft, tangy goat cheese that finished the dish with aplomb.

The selection of main courses was as varied as the appetizer menu. With a wide range of pastas to choose from (at prices ranging from $14 to $19 at lunch and $14.50 to $22.50 at dinner), I was tempted by many, such as the Farfalle Etrusca (Bowtie Pasta with Chicken, Spinach and Sun-dried Tomatoes, $16 at lunch) and the Pappardelle con Cavolo (Pappardelle with Cabbage and Sage, $14 at lunch).

Also tempting were the many seafood preparations, such as Baked Tilapia with Walnut-Herb Crust and Sweet Potatoes and Grilled Salmon with French Lentils, Pancetta and Balsamic Shallots (both from the prix fixe lunch menu).

Nonetheless, I opted for an intriguing sounding chicken dish, Chicken Rollatini Stuffed with Artichokes and Prosciutto from the prix fixe menu, which turned out to be a duo of cutlets embracing the savory filling, perched on a bed of buttery mashed potatoes and enhanced by béchamel sauce and a sprinkling of cut chives. The generous portion was way more than I could finish in a single sitting and also hope to taste dessert.

And, speaking of dessert, the menu is filled with a tempting array of sweets, all prepared on premises by Areo’s pastry chefs. I opted for the Strawberry Crisp filled with Vanilla Mousse ($8.50, also on the prix fixe menu), and was seduced by its combination of crisp pastry leaves, creamy mousse and satiny custard sauce. Sliced strawberries and a dusting of powdered sugar complete the offering, so good I finished every single bite.

I left feeling full and happy, well aware of how Areo attracts and keeps its loyal legion of diners who know the restaurant is the go-to place for a fine Italian meal.

AREO

8424 Third Avenue

Brooklyn NY 11209

718-238-0079

Lunch: Tuesday through Sunday, 11:45 a.m. to 3:45 p.m.

Dinner: Tuesday, Wednesday and Sunday, 4 to 10 p.m.

Thursday to Saturday, 4 to 11:45 p.m.

Closed Monday